A bilum is a token of love, holder of magic, reminder of home, memories of lost childhood and a symbol of wealth and position.

by CAROLINE SHERMAN

A bilum bag is a cultural icon, inextricably woven into the social and cultural fabric of Papua New Guinea. People write songs and poems about their Bilums. They are tokens of love, reminders of home, holders of magic and symbols of wealth and position. For many, they are memories of lost childhoods.

If you are given a Bilum bag it is an expression of love and emotion. It is said that 'The happier the weaver, the more beautiful the Bilum'. The women tell traditional stories as they weave; stories of sorcerers, mothers, young girls, babies, mountains and marriage. When your daughter gets married you give her a diamond design Bilum bag, a mountain design on a Bilum indicates the landscape of where you are from. The history of Papua New Guinea is woven into every Bilum bag.

A diamond bilum design made in Tambul, Western Highlands Province. Image: Elizabeth Bonshek / 2007.

 I first saw a Bilum bag in 2014, I was so inspired by its beauty, colours and physical strength. I wanted to better understand the history and technique behind such an original piece of design work. Through my research and my journeys to Papua New Guinea I found a community of women; weaving, caring, story telling and living through the making of Bilum bags. I set up Among Equals to work with these talented women of Papua New Guinea, and to bring my skills and experience as a Fashion and Textile designer of 20 years in London, New York and Sydney, to create a bag of deep cultural significance with a contemporary twist. 

• "The money from Among Equals to the Goroka Bilum weavers has enabled the women to pay for all the little girls to attend school. Your support has meant that we can pay for our healthcare, our traditional obligations and the things we need for our home. It has made a huge difference to us." - Florence Jaukae Kamel

Among Equals is a social enterprise, aimed at empowering Bilum makers in three communities in the highlands of Papua New Guinea. Their worlds are complex, often violent and insecure. Through an ongoing relationship with these women my aim is to provide them with sustainable incomes and to help ensure Bilum remains a viable art form for future generations. 

• Caroline Sherman is a Sydney-based fashion and textile designer and the founder 'Among Equals' operating in London, New York and Sydney.   
• Source: Article extracted from http://www.amongequals.com.au

Girls from Mt. Hagen with their preferred bilums on a Sunday for Church.
Image: JLois Paul Pawa Kurii, "Hagen Pride"/ April, 2017.

Girls from Wabag returning home from a nearby market with their bilums. Image: Kandepean Queenish / 2017.

Lazy around on a leisure time, these girls from Tari carrying their casual bilums. Image: Hela Wandarii Tunzup Nong / March, 2017.

'The art of weaving bilum’ – from traditional to contemporary fashion in Papua New Guinea

by ALISON ANIS

THE traditional art of weaving bilums or ‘basket’ – which has become the trademark for Papua New Guinea overseas, has, in a more westernized PNG society been revisited with a contemporary approach – in this case, while the designs are, in every sense, traditionally pure, sometimes the materials or tools used to create it, is artificial.

The bilums are hand-woven bags or baskets which are very common and widely used among Papua New Guinean societies.

Bilum products are common and widely used amongst PNG societies.
 Image Credit: Sodua Jexu Sparks / March, 2017.

They are either made from bark of certain trees, kandas or very strong ropes as in other provinces, and even from coconut or pandanus leaves. But the more common ones today are those made from artificial colored rolls of wools and needles – usually purchased from stores.  

Wool-bilums are often accomplished by skilled PNG women who have certain knowledge of the traditional designs from their area of origin.  

          
Image 1 - Bilum used as a bag in the highlands of PNG. Image Credit: Marielisha Ilai / March, 2017. 

Image 2 - Bilum used as a bag in the coastal region of PNG. Image Credit: Mckenzie Photography / 2017.

The most famously done and overused designs are from the Momase region and the Highlands. However, there is also some from the New Guinea Irelands like the Trobriand Islands, as well as the Northern provinces like the Oro.

But how do we classify the traditional Sepik basket, Tolai, Kavieng, Manus, Madang, Milne Bay and those from Bougainville into a more contemporary world?
These baskets are made using traditional bush materials as mentioned earlier and there are different styles, procedures or even expertise utilized for the accomplishment of these homely and traditional trademarks.

 

Bilum are sometimes made to reflect personal trademark and this bilum is specifically made for a girl in Mt. Hagen nicknamed "Gee Pamda". 

Image Credit: Gee Pamda / March, 2017. 

The idea of bilums started in the Highlands region some decades ago. Even before this, the traditional highlanders used the furs from the cuscus or tree possums interwoven together to form bilums, traditionally used as a means of carrying food or other produce.

Possum fur bilum from the Highlands of PNG.
Image Credit: Grey Grey Love / March, 2017.

The traditional highlands bilum are normally worn on the head and also use to carry babies apart from their garden produce. The original Highland’s bilum – with woven furs from tree possums (kapul) is usually shaped into a diamond form. The sides a sewn smoothly together and then tied on both ends, hence, forming a beautiful and colorful bilum with ends tied together.

However, the traditional concept of bilum or bilums in PNG has changed since then. Bilum is viewed today by many local women especially in and around the cities as a form of generating money.

Source: Article extracted from PNG Business and Tourism Directory (PNGBD.COM)

A women from the highlands of PNG with her bilum from the coastal region. Photograph courtesy of Sharon Roy Kenas / March, 2017.

A bilum from the coastal by desgin but owned by a girl from the highlands. Image Credit: Ray Ray Relvee / March, 2017.

A girl wearing a highlands bilum hat and taking selfie with friends in Mt. Hagen. Image Credit: Ray Ray Relvee / March, 2017. 

Two girls from the highlands show off with their bilum hats and taking selfie. Image Credit: Photograph courtesy of Hitz Karoma / March, 2017.

A girl taking selfie with the PNG's Deputy Opposition Leader and PANGU Party Parliamentarian leader Hon. Sam Basil with a Christmas Tree pattern bilum. Photograph courtesy of Mckongo Nash / March, 2017.

Eastern Highlands Governor and PNG woman parliamentarian (politician) Hon. Julie Soso with her two bags and in her bilum hat while making a speech.
Image Credit: Google Images / 2017.

PNG girls with outfits and bilums.
 Image Credit: Melissah Estell Kolemba / March, 2017.

Many PNG girls own more than one bilum and this young lass has many bilums and this is one of the many she has.
Image Credit: Ray Ray Relvee / March, 2017. 

A girl with her bilum from the coastal region of Papua New Guinea.
Photograph courtesy of Ambaii Nokondii / March, 2017.

A  bilum made in Tambul, Western Highlands Province. This two colours (red and yellow) are popular colours being used by a certain tribe in Tambul. Photograph courtesy of Grey Grey Love / March, 2017.

A girl with her bilum made in Tambul, Western Highlands Province. Photograph courtesy of Grey Love / March, 2017.

A girl from the highlands of PNG with her father and her bilum from the coastal region with the Madang bilum pattern. Photographs courtesy of Ray Ray Relvee / March, 2017.